Gerês, or Peneda-Gerês National Park, is a national park in northern Portugal. It is called Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês in Portuguese. It is the oldest protected area and Portugal’s only national park. It was set up in May 1971. It has an area of 695.9 km2 (268.7 sq mi) and is in the districts of Viana do Castelo, Braga, and Vila Real. In the north, it is next to the natural park of Baixa Limia–Serra do Xurés in Spain. Together, these two parks make up the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of Gerês-Xurés.
Peneda-Gerês was given its name by its two main granite massifs, the Serra da Peneda and the Serra do Gerês, which, along with the Serra Amarela and the Serra do Soajo, constitute the park’s highest peaks. The precipitous valleys, on the other hand, are home to lush temperate broadleaf and mixed forests of oak and pine and are one of the last strongholds of Portugal’s typical Atlantic European flora, in contrast to an evolving Mediterranean biome. The park is also home to more than 220 species of vertebrates, some of which can only be found on the Iberian Peninsula, such as the Pyrenean desman and the Iberian frog.
Megalithic structures and Roman ruins show that people have been in the area where the park is now for a long time. Presently, it is home to around 9,000 people scattered throughout small villages.
The park’s goal is to protect the land, water, plants, animals, and landscape while keeping its value for both people and nature.
Geography
The Peneda-Gerês National Park is located in the northwest of Portugal and includes the municipalities of Melgaço, Arcos de Valdevez, and Ponte da Barca (in the district of Viana do Castelo), Terras de Bouro (in the district of Braga), and Montalegre (in the district of Vila Real). It is the only national park in Portugal and is a popular destination for nature lovers and hikers alike. The park includes an area of 702.90 km2, of which 52.75 km2 are public lands, 194.38 km2 are private property, and the remaining 455.77 km2 are commons.
The park aims to simultaneously promote and regulate tourism, as the area’s ecosystem cannot withstand a major influx of visitors. As a result, there are six small camping places and a number of hiking routes, making it very simple to discover many of the most fascinating sites, such as the castros at Castro Laboreiro and Calcedónia and the monastery at Pitões das Júnias.
The most visited locations are those near a few main roadways. The shrines of Senhora da Peneda and So Bento da Porta Aberta, among many others, are examples of northern Portuguese devotion.Others, such as Soajo and Lindoso, include modest, traditional granite granaries, the espigueiros (from the Portuguese espiga, meaning spike or ear). Soajo is a typical Portuguese village situated on one of the Peneda Mountains’ slopes. On a block of granite, twenty-four espigueiros were created and are still used today to dry maize.
The waterfalls, particularly the one near the ancient frontier post at Portela do Homem and the Vilarinho das Furnas town when the Vilarinho das Furnas Dam is low enough, and the cascades along the Arado River, are two of the most well-known and frequently visited sights.
Domesticated animals also deserve recognition. The indigenous Barrosã and Cachena cattle, both of which are used in agriculture, are now endangered due to their diminishing value, as is the hunting dog, the Castro Laboreiro.
Visitor attractions in Peneda-Gerês National Park:
Castro Laboreiro
Castro Laboreiro is a village (administratively, it’s a town) with around 500 inhabitants and located at 1000 metres altitude. Castro Laboreiro combines culture, history, and nature in a way that no other place does, giving visitors an experience they will never forget.
Before visiting the centre of Castro Laboreiro, where you’ll find typical granite houses, a church, a pillory, the old bridge (Ponte Velha), and the museological nucleus (worth visiting), where you’ll discover the history and ways and traditions of its inhabitants, explore the castle ruins, from where you can enjoy one of the most breathtaking views over Peneda-Gerês National Park.
How to get there: From Porto Airport, take the motorway A3 to Braga/Valença and continue for about 100 km, always heading toward Valença. Turn right after the tolls for about 5.5 kilometers and continue on the N202 for about 40 kilometers to Melgaço. In Melgaço, follow the directions to Castro Laboreiro or Lamas de Mouro and continue for about 19 km until you reach Lamas de Mouro, where you must turn left towards ´Castro Laboreiro`. Continue on the N202-3, and after about 7 km, you will reach the village of Castro Laboreiro.
GPS coordinates: 42° 1’48.44″N 8° 9’30.76″O
Peneda
The Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Peneda is a Catholic sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary under the invocation of Nossa Senhora da Peneda, located in the parish of Gavieira, municipality of Arcos de Valdevez, and district of Viana do Castelo.
Peneda is at the bottom of a gorge. It is close to a huge round rock and a beautiful waterfall.
Built during the 18th and 19th centuries, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Peneda is the key attraction of Peneda.
The sanctuary was constructed on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to a shepherd in 1220. In the 13th century, a chapel was constructed. As the Portuguese and Spanish grew more devout, they constructed a sanctuary with a 300-meter stairway and 20 smaller chapels depicting Christ’s life.
Nossa Senhora da Peneda is celebrated during the first week of September. Locals and visitors take part in a procession with candles.
Soajo
Located on the Lima River, Soajo is renowned for its granite granaries, its fine gastronomy, its dog breed (called Castro Laboreiro dogs), and the mediaeval bridge Ladeira.
There is a wonderful view of the surrounding meadows here, and hiking is an excellent way to explore the natural beauty of this protected area.
It is recommended that you spend some time exploring the narrow streets of this village during your visit.
Lindoso
Lindoso is a tiny farming and shepherding community. This area is well-known, particularly for its castle (1278) and its 50 granaries from the 17th and 18th centuries, which resemble mausoleums but serve an entirely different purpose. These granite granaries include ventilation holes that allow air to dry and preserve the corn.
Portela do Homem waterfall
Portela do Homem is one of the most popular waterfalls in the park, perhaps due to its accessibility. It is near the Spanish border.
Because the Mata do Albergaria woodland is a protected portion of the park, you cannot park here to view this waterfall. To explore this location, park your vehicle near the Spanish border and then walk 800 metres to reach the waterfall.
A few hundred metres to the right of the waterfall is a path that will bring you to the river, where you can swim away from the crowds. This route will lead you to the abandoned Carris mines from the 1970s.
Termas do Gerês
Also known as Vila do Gerês, this small town, apart from having given the name to this national park, has something unique in this region: thermal waters, which are used to treat liver diseases, digestive tract diseases, circulatory system diseases, and metabolic and endocrine problems too.
Stroll through Rua Dr. Manuel Gomes de Almeida, where you’ll find several stores, restaurants, and thermal waters.
Before leaving town, visit the thermal park (tickets are around 1 euro if you want to visit the garden), where you can rent a small boat to enjoy the lake. In the summer, the park has pools that are accessible to the public and perfect for relaxing on warmer days.
Ponte do Diabo—Misarela
When you visit Peneda-Gerês National Park, you must appreciate the Misarela Bridge, often known as the Devil’s Bridge due to popular beliefs associated with the Christian faith.
The Misarela Bridge, constructed in the Middle Ages and reconstructed during the Napoleonic invasions, spans the Rabago River, which flows into the Cávado River, the natural boundary of the park.
Even though the bridge is barely 2 kilometres outside the park, it would be a shame if you didn’t make the trip to view this beautiful location.
To reach this bridge, you must park your vehicle at the town of Sidrós or on the opposite side of the Rabagão river, at the beginning of the dirt road located before to the road bridge that links the park to the community of Ruivão.
Take the one-kilometer dirt road from Sidrós to see the bridge from a higher vantage point (ideal for taking photos) and its majestic 13-meter arch.
Pedra Bela viewpoint
This vantage point is one of the most picturesque sites to observe Peneda-Gerês National Park, particularly at sunset!
From the summit of Gerês, one may enjoy a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains, the Cávado River (where Alqueirão River Beach is located), and the town.
Sanctuary of São Bento da Porta Aberta
In 1615, a chapel was built so that the inhabitants of Seara da Forcadela could attend mass without having to go to Rio Caldo village.
The chapel was named after Saint Benedict, and from the 18th century on, more and more pilgrims came to this place because more and more miracles were said to have happened there because of this saint.
According to popular belief, the name of this place (São Bento da Porta Aberta, literally “Saint Benedict of the Open Door”) has its origins in the old chapel and its doors that were always open so that it would be a shelter for those passing by.
Construction of this sanctuary began in 1880 and ended in 1895. With over 2.5 million pilgrims every year, the church became too small, so, in order to welcome everyone, a crypt was built in 1998 on the left side of the sanctuary.
In honour of the sanctuary’s 400-year existence, Pope Francis elevated it to the status of a basilica in 2015.
Entrances to the park (Tourist Office):
Lamas de Mouro, Mezio, Lindoso, Campo do Gerês, Paradela and Montalegre
Map and information on the hikes in Peneda-Gerês National Park: https://natural.pt and adere-pg.pt
Booking central of the regions of Peneda-Gerês National Park: adere-pg.pt
