Cascais has a way of pulling you in. It’s the mix of salt air drifting off the Atlantic, the sun warming centuries-old stone, and the easy hum of a coastal town that has lived more than one life.
Once a humble fishing village, it became the summer retreat of kings and aristocrats, and now it’s a stylish, sunlit escape where cobblestone lanes spill into wide beaches and the scent of grilled sardines hangs in the air.
When we set out to explore Cascais, I thought I knew the outline: a few elegant streets, the marina, some beaches. But the deeper we wandered, the more I realised that Cascais isn’t just a pretty postcard. It’s a living, breathing place — part historic harbour, part open-air museum, part café terrace under a blue sky — where history, nature, food, and the sea are constantly in conversation.
Here’s what we found, from the obvious showstoppers to the quiet corners most visitors never reach.
Getting There — The First Glimpse
We left Lisbon from Cais do Sodré station on a sunny morning, boarding the coastal train that runs straight to Cascais. It’s an easy journey — about 40 minutes — but it’s worth arriving early to choose your seat.
On the left side of the train, the view opens onto the Atlantic almost immediately. The sea glitters between palm trees and terracotta rooftops. Fishing villages and beach towns flash past: Paço de Arcos with its old fort, Carcavelos with its long sweep of sand, Estoril with its grand casino and faded glamour.
As we rolled into Cascais Station (GPS: 38.6975° N, -9.4198° W), the briny scent of the ocean came through the open carriage windows, mixed with the faint aroma of sardines grilling somewhere nearby.
Insider Tip: Sit on the left side of the train for uninterrupted coastal views.
First Steps — Rua Frederico Arouca
From the station, it’s a short stroll to Rua Frederico Arouca (GPS: 38.6971° N, -9.4212° W), the pedestrian artery of Cascais’ old town. The pavement here is laid in the distinctive black-and-white calçada mosaics, worn smooth by decades of footsteps.
Shops spill onto the street: linen dresses swaying in the breeze, cork handbags stacked in neat towers, shelves of glazed tiles in every imaginable blue.
Between the souvenir stands, we found Cerâmicas na Linha, a small workshop where the owner paints each tile by hand. The brush strokes are careful but fluid, like someone who has been painting the sea all their life.
Insider Tip: Arrive before 10 am if you want to photograph the street without crowds.
Praça 5 de Outubro — The Heartbeat of Town
Follow Rua Frederico Arouca and you’ll be drawn, inevitably, into Praça 5 de Outubro (GPS: 38.6977° N, -9.4205° W).
The patterned pavement here ripples like ocean waves — black basalt and white limestone reflecting the strong midday sun.
On one side is the Cascais Town Hall, fronted by blue-and-white azulejo panels that tell the story of the town’s maritime heritage. On another, café terraces stretch under wide umbrellas, each table an invitation to linger.
We chose Café Galeria House of Wonders, a vegetarian-friendly café with a rooftop terrace. From up there, you can catch the breeze off the sea and hear the faint chime of church bells over the square.
Address: Largo da Misericórdia 53, Cascais
Insider Tip: The rooftop is magical at sunset.
The Harbour — Where Cascais Began
From the square, it’s only a few minutes to the old fishing harbour (GPS: 38.6957° N, -9.4187° W). Here, wooden boats painted in bright reds and blues rock gently against the pier, nets lie in patient coils, and gulls circle in slow arcs overhead.
This is where Cascais started — as a fishing village long before royalty made it fashionable. Step a little further and you’re in the sleek Marina de Cascais, where white yachts line the docks and the waterfront is edged with boutiques and wine bars.
Insider Tip: Arrive at sunrise to see the fishermen hauling in their catch — a scene that hasn’t changed much in a hundred years.
The Beaches — Not Just for Summer
Cascais is wrapped in sandy coves and rocky shores, each with its own mood.
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Praia da Ribeira (GPS: 38.6968° N, -9.4191° W) — Right in the centre, once where fishing boats landed. Small but full of life.
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Praia da Rainha (GPS: 38.6973° N, -9.4196° W) — A hidden cove once reserved for royalty. Early morning is best, before the sunbathers arrive.
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Praia de Conceição & Praia da Duquesa (GPS: 38.6978° N, -9.4175° W) — Side-by-side stretches with calm water, ideal for paddleboarding or just wading out to sea.
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Praia do Guincho (GPS: 38.7326° N, -9.4725° W) — A wild, wind-lashed expanse backed by dunes and the Serra de Sintra. This is where you feel the full force of the Atlantic.
Insider Tip: At Guincho, even summer days can be chilly in the wind — bring a light jacket.
Boca do Inferno — The Mouth of Hell
We followed the coast west to Boca do Inferno (GPS: 38.6950° N, -9.4351° W), a jagged chasm where the sea crashes through an arch in the cliffs. On stormy days, the spray leaps high enough to mist your face. On calmer days, the sound is a deep, steady boom.
Insider Tip: Come in late afternoon for dramatic light without the midday crowd.
Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães
Back towards the marina, a path leads to Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães (GPS: 38.6944° N, -9.4204° W). Built in 1900, this mansion mixes Gothic towers with Moorish arches, and inside holds rare books, paintings, and antique furniture.
But it’s the library that lingers in your mind — one of the oldest in Cascais, its shelves filled with leather-bound volumes that smell faintly of sea air and dust.
Address: Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália
Opening Hours: Tue–Sun, 10 am–6 pm
Santa Marta Lighthouse
Just along the water stands the Santa Marta Lighthouse (GPS: 38.6940° N, -9.4208° W), striped in blue and white. Its small museum tells the story of Portugal’s coastal defences — from ancient beacons to modern navigation.
Parque Marechal Carmona
Next door, Parque Marechal Carmona (GPS: 38.6946° N, -9.4193° W) offers shade under jacaranda trees and the occasional peacock strutting across the lawn. It’s the perfect place to slow the pace.
Insider Tip: There’s a small café in the park serving fresh juices and pastries.
The Paredão — A Walk by the Water
From Praia de Conceição, you can follow the Paredão — a flat, scenic promenade that runs to Estoril (Start GPS: 38.6978° N, -9.4175° W, End GPS: 38.7045° N, -9.3975° W). The sea is on one side, small cafés on the other, and the rhythm of waves sets your walking pace.
Where We Ate
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Mar do Inferno — Near Boca do Inferno, famous for grilled seafood. (GPS: 38.6943° N, -9.4359° W)
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Taberna Clandestina — A cozy spot for creative petiscos. (GPS: 38.6971° N, -9.4210° W)
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Fortaleza do Guincho — Michelin-starred fine dining in a 17th-century fortress overlooking Guincho Beach. (GPS: 38.7291° N, -9.4754° W)
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Santini — Legendary gelato since 1949. (GPS: 38.6978° N, -9.4179° W)
Mercado da Vila
Our last stop was Mercado da Vila (GPS: 38.6990° N, -9.4217° W), Cascais’ municipal market. Mornings bring a bustle of fishmongers, cheese sellers, and fruit stalls. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the artisan market takes over, with handwoven baskets, local wines, and small-batch olive oil.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Finds
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Capela de São Sebastião (GPS: 38.6970° N, -9.4200° W) — A tiny fisherman’s chapel most visitors pass without noticing.
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Hidden Courtyard Cafés — Watch for discreet “Café Galeria” signs; they often lead to leafy courtyards and quiet tables.
Practical Tips
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Best Time to Visit: May–June or September–October for warm days without peak crowds.
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Transport: Walk the old town; rent a bike for Guincho (€15–€20/day).
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Nearby Day Trips: Sintra (30 minutes by bus) or Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe.
Why We’ll Return
Cascais gave us more than views and photographs. It’s the sound of waves under a cliff, the taste of sardines fresh from the grill, the warmth of a cobbled square at dusk. It’s the feeling of a place that knows how to breathe — slowly, deeply, in rhythm with the tide.
We came for a day. We stayed longer. And we’ll be back, because Cascais, like the sea, always leaves you wanting one more walk along its shore.
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