A quiet border town in the heart of the Alentejo, Campo Maior reveals its history slowly. At the centre of it all stands Campo Maior Castle, a weathered fortress shaped by centuries of conflict, resilience, and everyday life. This travel story explores the castle, the town beneath it, and why this overlooked corner of Portugal rewards those who travel without rushing.

Bragança is Portugal at its quiet edge – a medieval frontier city of stone walls, watchtowers, chestnut hills, and villages that barely notice the border with Spain. This is a place for slow travelers: castle views, wild Montesinho trails, shared ovens in Rio de Onor, and heavy plates of Trás-os-Montes comfort food.